Modular Rack System for Gridfinity Drawers

GrafXP

Tools>Organizers

Print Profile(1)

All

A1 mini

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

Fitment test: 0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill

47 min

1 plate

Boost

158

452

334

Released

Description

This is a completely modular customizable rack system for gridfinity drawers.

Please scroll down to find the list of all available models and links to the download pages.

The system currently consist of three types of elements. Elements for a single rack tower, elements for a double rack tower and elements for a customizable rack multi tower / drawer wall.

All elements are housing drawers with space for a 5x5 gridfinity base plate and are currently available in the following heights:

3U, 4U, 6U, 8U and 10U.

A xU drawer can fit standard xU gridfinity boxes.

The side, back and connector elements contain dove tail connectors with friction fitting.

To connect and disconnect them, a little bit of force is needed. I found that lightly tapping with the back of a scredriver does the trick.

To connect the elements vertically, connection pins have to be printed.

The top of a rack tower can be finalized with the modular top lid elements. To connect these lid elements, screw in connection pins are provided.

Every element can be printed on a Bambu Lab X1C or P1P/S build plate (256x256).

I drew a lot of inspiration from the FOSBOS and BaBo systems, but I wanted to create a system that would not need screws or glue and could be reconfigured at any time.

Print settings

Every element has its own print profile (follow the links below) with the following settings included:

Layer height	0.2
Walls	4
Material	Structural Parts (PLA, ABS etc.) Connection Pins / Screw in Pins (PETG)
Infill	15 %

Connection Test

If you are unsure about the calibration of your printer you can use the following test print.

Overview

Comment & Rating (22)

@user_2068213928

Printed single rack so far on A1. Looks excellent and I really like the overall look and what it can do for my space for storing items. Keep it up :) Now for what did not work well for me ;) Dovetails are very very tight, slightly too tight in my opinion. While for walls you can slowly hammer them in (probably never coming apart), after some light filing. The thin joiners are a different story. The thin joiners for the bottom though just broke at the dovetail section, even when trying to slowly and gradually push them in. Even after filing them quite a bit. There is not enough material strength there in my PLA. Would recommend looking at those tolerances, especially for thin parts. Maybe adding some more material there - weirdly the dovetail did not break at the thinnest part (I guess because how there layer is still continuous from main body part), but in the middle - it de-laminated where tension was too great.

@Shadowpheonix

Boosted

I am experiencing the exact same issue with the dovetails being too tight on my new P1S. Running the Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate calibrations in Bambu Studio for my filament was a must to even get close to functional (before them, even a hammer could not get the dovetails together). I've tried Bambu Lab's PLA, Sunlu PLA+, and 3d Solutech PLA with the same results on all of them. On a side note, I am very glad the "Connection Test" model exists - it has saved me a lot of filament since I now know better than to try printing the full system. Update - February 9, 2024: After some testing, I have determined that a bit of dish soap applied to the solid dovetails will let me gently tap them in place with a rubber mallet, and scaling the thin strip dovetails to narrow them to 95% of original width will let them slide into place without breaking or being too loose. I now have a 2 drawer single stack printed and assembled, and am in the process of printing a couple more drawer units (don't want to get too carried away yet, as I am really looking forward to the customizable variant).

(Edited)

@RockChewer

great system!

The designer has replied

@GrafXP

Hey thank you for the picture. Looks like a very nice tower. I am currently uploading all the components for the double and multi tower / wall systems. But after that I am most likely going to work on drawers for smaller grids, probably like 4x5 and 3x5.

@user_2068213928

So for me I have removed 0.4mm from dovetail holes, also for the dovetails themselves I have removed 0.4mm from certain parts of their profiles. This allows them to print well. you can connect them with reasonable amount of force, they are still tight, but prevent parts from breaking during assembly. See attached screenshots.

@wirelessbread

What are you recommend print settings for the x1c?

The designer has replied

@GrafXP

Hey thank you for the interest in this system. I used a layer height of 0.2 and 4 walls to print my towers. The connection pins should be printed in PETG for the flex that is needed. I will add a section to the description soon.

@cawshis

Replying to @GrafXP :

!!! I totally missed that the connection pins should be in PETG! i made these in all PLA and the slots were super tight/not connectable as printed. Haha.

@GrafXP

Replying to @cawshis :

Hi cawshis, sorry for that. I will definitely update the description to highlight this soon.

@Shadowpheonix

Boosted

@GrafXP Is the customizable version still coming, or have you moved on from this project? (Completely understandable if you have - I would just like to know whether I should keep waiting or look for an alternative). Last update to any part of the project appears to have been the Connection Test piece published on on January 11th, 2024. All other parts appear to have been published between December 23rd & 27th, 2023.

The designer has replied

@GrafXP

Hi @Shadowpheonix thank you for your question. I had planned to create the individual pages for the modular system. But the interest in the double tower was already quite low compared to the single tower and therefore I was not really motivated to put in all the work to create the individual pages and the 3MF files etc. But I am not sure if you know that I uploaded the whole customizable system assembly as a STEP file on the overview page. If you click the arrow at the end of the green download button and the select "Download STL" you will get a list of available models. Download the "Assemlby Multi v3.step" and open it in Bambu studio or Orca Slicer and go to Objects view. You will see the whole list of available parts for the customizable system. It will be even more convenient if you open it in Fusion360 or onshape. I hope this helps you until I can find the motivation to upload the parts individually.

@Shadowpheonix

Boosted

Replying to @GrafXP :

Thank you. I will see what I can do with the step file. I can definitely understand about the lack of interest making it not worth the effort.

@Dr_Abigail

I like this system but the tolerances on the dovetails are _ridiculously_ tight, like there doesn't seem to be any tolerance at all. These draws will need to be broken apart before I'm able to pry them apart if I want to re-purpose the parts.

@JoshuaM

Let's get some print profiles up in here!

@FusedThreads

Boosted

Here are some tips for better prints with these models. I'd add print profiles, but I'm lazy, there are a lot of variants, and I can't say may settings will work for everyone. * Use something like a Pliers Wrench or smooth-jawed vice to fully seat the wall corner dovetails. * Use a -0.1mm X-Y contour compensation on the connectors (thin strips under drawer) to make hand assembly possible. * Try contour compensation on on the back wall too if you don't have anything to press the parts together. * For larger pieces (walls, drawer, lid, and grid), adjust the PLA Basic profile to 65C build plate temperature to ensure better adhesion and reduce corner lifting. (keep the connectors and pins at their default temperature) * A little pre-warming of enclosed printers will also help with warping. * Use a glue stick, even if it's not normally needed for your build plate. * Add a brim to the drawer to keep the protruding front corners on the bed. Round pads (mouse ears) on the corners should work too if you're familiar with the technique. * Flip the center section of the lid so that the top has a uniform texture from the build plate. The resulting overhang on the dovetails prints just fine.

@Shadowpheonix

Boosted

Here's a boost as a thanks for the hard work you have put into this design. :)