X1C/P1S/P1P Best LED Riser - Perfect size / No screws / No glue by tellus1019

tellus1019

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(3)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

Bambu Lab PLA Basic : 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

7.3 h

2 plates

4.8(161)

Polymaker ABS : 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

14.2 h

2 plates

4.7(28)

PETG Profile 0.2mm layer

8.7 h

2 plates

4.8(40)

Boost

472

876

316

2 k

2.5 k

Released

Description

Having trouble with dark lighting 3D printers?
This LED Riser will solve all your problems!

Easy printing
Easy assembly
No screws/glue required
Tilted LED lighting in the chamber
Interlocked with ON/OFF control

It is adjusted to print at the perfect size.
If shrinkage occurs, e.g. with ABS filament, it may make it difficult to close the glass top panel.
If this is the case, adjust the print size according to the shrinkage.

Caution
Do not use PLA if you require higher bed temperatures.
If you use a bed temperature above 70 degrees Celsius, print with ABS or PETG.

What you Need
Prepare the LED light ribbons sold by Aliexpress.

With this LED tape from Aliexpress, you can choose between X1C and P1S/P1P.
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005952550058.html

Assembly Instructions

1. Print out all parts
Print all parts included in the profile.
There are 4 risers and 8 clasps.

2. Insert the LED power cable
Pass the LED power cable through the front left part.
There is a hole in the corner to take out the cable.

Take out the cable from there.

3. Insert LEDs into all parts
Insert LEDs through all parts.
Insert the LEDs from the edge of the parts and push them in.
The load will increase when you turn a corner, but this is not a problem if you push the LED in little by little.

4. Fasten the parts with clasps.
Fasten the parts with clamps at the front, back, left, and right, for a total of 8 locations.
Push the clasps into position.
It is easier to fix the lower part first, then the upper part.

5. replace existing LED power cable with new cable
After the LED Riser is completed, plug in the power cable.

First, turn off the printer.
Locate the LED connector from the power supply area at the top inside the 3D printer.
Disconnect the existing LED connector and connect the new LED power supply.

Check the wiki for details.
Connector location differs between X1C and P1S/P1P.

X1C
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-the-chamber-led

P1S/P1P

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/troubleshooting/p1p-led-failture

6. Check the LED operation
Turn on the printer.
Change the LED lighting setting and check if the LED lights up.
If there is no problem, the LED should light up in conjunction with ON/OFF.

Comment & Rating (316)

@jjjlee

Print Profile

PETG Profile 0.2mm layer

EDIT: To anyone wanting to do this mod, DO NOT PLUG ANY LEDs DIRECTLY INTO YOUR X1C OR P1S. IT WILL KILL YOUR AP BOARD. These printers have AP boards that can only handle 5v, 0.3A lights, hence the one that it ships with is so dim. The LED srrips recommended here draw way more and will blow your AP board. Also, this will VOID your warranty. There really should have been a disclaimer here.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@JuanBedollaJr

if you buy the right LED’s this won’t be an issue. it’s not a print profile issue it’s an issue with the LED’s you choose to use.

(Edited)

@jeff_riehm

thanks for the post! I had literally had the aliexpress lights hooked up for a few hours then saw your post and immediately unplugged them. I am new to the hobby and need to be more mindful about what people post on here. I had assumed it was legit. Agree that a disclaimer should have been noted here

@jjjlee

Replying to @JuanBedollaJr :

Two things, first, good luck finding any strip LEDs that are 0.3A or less that will be bright enough to even justify this upgrade. As I stated, this is the limitation of the AP board. I'd be happy to be proven wrong if you can find one and send a link. Second, this is an issue with this profile as the original post not only has instructions to plug directly to the AP board but also has a link to LEDs to purchase from Aliexpress, which I've purchaseed and tested at 2.5A. This will 100% kill your AP board.

(Edited)

@maxsterr

Boosted

Print Profile

Bambu Lab PLA Basic : 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Great STL. printed without any issues what so ever. Used pla-cf and it came out great.

@richriedling

What led did you use? i like the fact that yours is diffused, instead of seeing all of the individual LED.

@maxsterr

Boosted

Replying to @richriedling :

KXZM DC 5V USB COB LED Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XDJVH9Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

(Edited)

@scodavis

I like how you matched up the details of your riser with that piece you put on the display. Can you point me to that model?

@flesch.andreas

Don´t waste your time printing this... Lenghts not equal. At least 3/4" off (21mm). Wastet 8 hrs and a bunch of Filament -.-

The designer has replied

@tellus1019

If you can measure the length, why not measure the length of all the parts? This is a good opportunity to recognize the difference between yourself and many users who have assembled it correctly. Tip: Each part must be in the correct position. If you feel something is wrong, swap places.

@cblte

Replying to @tellus1019 :

Or. Maybe print the correct parts and not some parts mistakenly twice?

@Shannon3DFusion

You assembled it incorrectly. Thats not a fault of the designer.

@pathetap

well that stings. so much for no glue. even cleaned the bed just before this.

(Edited)

@Deanidk

lol pretty sure the “no glue” in the title refers to no glue needed for assembly 😅

@pathetap

Replying to @Deanidk :

yeap, makes sense. so much for 220g though.

@DortmunderJung

Print Profile

Bambu Lab PLA Basic : 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

richtig geil. bin total begeistert 🤙👍. Dankeschön

@eric.z87

Servus DortmunderJung, hast Du die LED aus der Beschreibung bestellt und musste man noch etwas anpassen oder einfach alte LED abziehen, neue LED anschließen? Danke im Voraus und schöne Weihnachten!

@DortmunderJung

Replying to @eric.z87 :

Hey ho, die LED habe ich von Aliexpress bestellt. Die LED Leiste wird dann einfach in den Druck reingezogen. Passt echt alles super. Dann einfach die alte abziehen und neue rein und fertig. Legosteckprinzip

(Edited)

@cheemonk4200

worked great. printed with PETG. I used a light strip I got at Walmart for $5 and plugged it into the USB behind the screen. I used corn starch to make the light strip slide easier in the channels. worked great!!

@LibreArbitre

Corn starch? Great idea, thank you!

@user_3068026949

HOW ARE YALL GEETTING THIS TO FIT??? ITS A SOLID 1/2" too large in the y-axis!!! Loaded the project straight into Bambu with my own PETG profile and this is what I get. Useless waste of valuable print time and filament. As far as I'm concerned the maker of this owes me a roll. The picture shows the measurement of the y-axis of the top glass. The ACTUAL glass measures 14" while the space provided is 14 1/2". This should be taken down and the maker admonished.

The designer has replied

@tellus1019

Why not use that tape measure to measure the length of all the parts? This is a good opportunity to recognize the difference between yourself and many other users who have assembled correctly. A hint: each part must be in the correct position. If you feel something is wrong, switch places.

@sebastian.korna

doesn't fit for p1s

The designer has replied

@tellus1019

@sicog33k

Printed perfectly and assembled easily, made a HUGE difference in light inside my P1P. I do need to get some sides installed so it stays in place better, but that is on the to do list. Thanks for sharing this project.

(Edited)