This is special desiccant holder intended for use in large filament dry boxes. It is in the shape of a role of filament, half as wide and cut in half. There are holes in the top, bottom, and side. It was designed with ease and longevity in mind.

Its features include:

1. Minimal supports.
2. High bed adhesion.
3. Low chance of failure.
4. Easy dehydration.
5. Effective desiccant holder.

Info:

The overall design of the desiccant holder is very basic. While designing it, I kept the ease of use in mind. Like said before, it is a semicircle the size of a standard 1kg spool of filament, except its is half the thickness. This means that you can fit up to 4 of them in a standard filament drier. There are holes for airflow, and it requires minimal supports.

When paired up with reusable desiccant, (Here's some you can get https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Replacement-Desiccant-Indicating-Reusable/dp/B019NN1GBG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A17QCEXR2SHYMI&th=1) there is added functionality. With normal desiccant, it is not reusable, and with reusable desiccant in a normal holder, it is not ideal for driers that most 3d printers use. This design fixes all of those problems. It easily fits into a filament drier, allowing it to be dehydrated easily, and never has to be opened.

Settings:

Infill: 15% - 25% (I personally printed mine in 25% infill, but for PETG its definitely overkill)

Brim/skirt: No

Layer height: 0.2 mm

Nozzle size: 0.4 mm

Perimeters: 2 (Less if printing in PETG)

Supports: Tree supports

Assembly:

There are two main parts that the box comes in. The box itself and the lid. Before assembly, put the desiccant in the box. There are rectangular sections cut out of the box. The lid has rectangular sections that fit into the box. One there, apple downward pressure so that the lid snaps in. The amount of force needed varies depending on the filament and settings, but it generally is very high. If you find it difficult to install the lid, use something like pliers to bend the box to snap on the lid.

What filament should you use?

I personally used PETG because of the assembly. The entire box has to bend for the lid to snap on. This puts a lot of strain on more rigid filaments like PLA and ABS. Due to that, I suggest PETG if you have some. If you do not have PETG, use PLA or something similar, but have the infill relatively high, like 25%. With PETG there is more leeway, as it is able to bend significantly without snapping (in PLA it has snapped several times, where in PETG it has stayed very strong.)

The print itself is very long. In PETG 25% it took about 13 hours. Due to this print time, I suggest that you change the infil density to suit your needs. If this print time to you if unreasonable, and your machine isn't tuned for a high amount of perimeters (all of the holes generated a lot of perimeter loops), I have provided an older model. It is larger and has less holes, but the print time is significantly decreased and it is easier to print (a.k.a less chance of failure).

In the pictures provided, I use a special Overture Clear PETG. I have used this in combination with the specific brand of desiccant I use (it changes color depending on the humidity absorbed), to be able to see the color of the desiccant better. If you happen to use this filament, I have also provided a print profile for this PETG that gives a bit more clarity in terms of opacity while not sacrificing print speed.

If you print this, please upload you personalized print profile and post a review. I am eager for suggestions and improvements that can be made.

Modelled in Fusion 360.