12 Gauge Shotgun Shell Cut Away Model

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12 Gauge Shotgun Shell Cut Away Model

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12
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Print Profile(1)

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
7.1 h
5 plates
5.0(2)

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12
22
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1
16
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Description

This is a 12 gauge/70mm Shell Cut Away, model. These don't NEED supports, although, I use PETG support on the brass head for the lettering on the case head. you don't have to. Also, make sure you're printing with the shell body facing down, otherwise it will print a TON of support to print the roll crimp. Use a Quality hobby grade CA glue for assembly. Do NOT use cheap gel glue from the store or it WILL frost the parts as the glue off gases during curing( Loctite, Gorilla brand, etc). If you experience some off gas hazing, a tiny rub down with petroleum jelly, followed by a good wipe down with a soft cloth will make it look good as new. Unfortunately, I don't have assembly pictures and all of mine are assembled. I will try to update/ add assembly pictures later when I print another model.

 

Assembly is pretty straight forward. Just referencing the picture will give you a pretty clear idea. Generally, I assemble as follows/ here are some tips:

  • Assemble the primer separately and allow to dry before gluing it into the brass case head
  • Assemble the stuffing, gunpowder, bottom of the wadding into an assembly
  • Use the assembled primer/case head as an alignment tool to install the wadding/gunpowder assembly
  • Slide in from the bottom of the shell body, align and glue the sell cap into the shell body
  • Slide the Wadding cup into the shell body, glue/align to your liking
  • loosely place the wadding cushion( the X-shaped piece) in the brass case head assembly, slide the shell assembly down. add a few drops of glue and adjust the position. Honestly, the wadding cushion can go either way, but, the large gap side of the X usually faces, down.

Lastly, the shot is sized small. if you increase/decrease the scaling on the shot, you can go down to birdshot OR Buckshot as pictured. Use a brim when printing the shot, they come out better. I glue the 3-shot ball sets in after the entire rest of the model is assembled. I loosely place them into the shell and orient them as desired. The 3-ball sets will orient easily based on the shape. I use THIN OR MEDIUM CA glue with a fine point applicator to place a drop between the contact points, while they are inside the shell, as it will wick into the joint easily.

 

Filaments I use:

  • CC3D PLA Silk- Bronze/ Brass(Case)
  • SunLu PLA - Red (Shell Body) Any color can really be used for this, green and black look really fantastic, too.
  • SunLu PLA - White ( Wad components, Shell Cap, and Stuffing)
  • CC3D PLA Silk- Gold/Copper( Primer Cup, Primer Anvil, and Brass Case)
  • Creality/Giantarm-PLA-Black or Dark Grey( Gunpowder)
  • Creality PLA- Grey or Black( Shot)

Comment & Rating (7)

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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
These are fantastic models. Great for firearms enthusiast or as training aids for firearms safety course instructors. Very well designed, parts fit together with precision. The great instructions on proper assembly. I printed 25% larger for both models. Pictures provided to show different color variations. Creality Ender Black PLA Creality Ender Grey PLA Creality Ender White PLA Creality Hyper Series Red PLA Polymaker Silk Brass PLA CC3D Silk Pro Silver HZST3D Silk Copper
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Printed just fien with the gifden profile. I added a"closure" part for the shell so one can do show and tell of a complete shell.
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I'm really happy with most of this model. I printed it and it looks pretty solid. I believe we may be missing a piece of the primer. I don't have the grey/silver cup between the headstamp and the brass cup of the inner primer.
The designer has replied
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let me review this, and check! Thabks for letting me know!!
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Wait, aren’t they already broken down into plates? I separated them as it does speed the process up exponentially. I’m showing them separately
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Replying to @Johnny_No_5 :
it is broken into plates. and I appreciate that. I've hilighted in green the part I'm speaking of. I have the gold inner primer cup, but there needs to be another small flared piece between that and the brass hull. I'd call it the top female piece that holds the anvil down in place below the powder. I reopened your file in case I accidentally deleted it or slid it off the workspace. but I was still unable to locate it.
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