BentoBox V2.0 Thermally Controlled 5015 Fans

Remixed by

BentoBox V2.0 Thermally Controlled 5015 Fans

Remixed by
Boost
39
90
13

Print Profile(2)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
Designer
5.2 h
2 plates
4.5(2)

fixed seams,custom material for quality,changed settings
fixed seams,custom material for quality,changed settings
6.3 h
2 plates
5.0(1)

Boost
39
90
13
1
47
9
Released

Description

I loved the design of the bento box, knowing that the built-in carbon filter in the X1C is insufficient to really clean the air properly. However, I wanted to use standard 5015 blower style fans I already had. Enter the design from SSX556 on Printables.

I also wanted to never have to manually flip a switch to turn on the Bento box, I wanted it to automatically turn on when it is needed, and turn off after providing a bit of extra cleaning time after a print finishes. Enter a thermally controlled power switch. I modified the shroud portion to take this specific thermal control, and provided a clip to snap in the thermocouple as well. In the design I included a small anchor point for a ziptie to help manage the wires on the inside, but found I didn't actually need it.

 

Thermal Controller:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B6CNLD3H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8

 

NOTE: This controller comes with a “debounce” feature you can adjust if desired. By default, it will wait until +2C above your setpoint before it actually turns on. For example, if the setpoint is 36C, it will wait until it reads 38C before it turns on. It will then wait until 36C to turn back off. I personally found that 36C was a good value to ensure it turned on when I was printing ABS/ASA/Nylon, but didn't turn on when I was printing PLA with the top glass lifted off. Your milage may vary.

 

I also designed a small TPU gasket that can be used to seal around the thermal controller, and modified the TPU cable plugs to have a small slot for the cables to come out, and modified the shape to be easier to print.

 

Gasket and plugs should be printed in TPU. The fan case and shroud should be in something that can handle higher temps like PETG, ABS, ASA, or equivalent. I personally used PETG-CF because I liked the way it looked.

Comment & Rating (13)

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worked out great! i used 6" two pin connector-alittle tight. only issue is my inexperience with push threaded connectors and OH...specs on the magnets i got were off. some were bigger and i didn't dry fit(dont push them all the way in, just slightly), so i was left to forcing them in. i tried to heat them up and sink them and that DID work but the magnets lose alot of there magnetisms. Good thing it was on the fan to temp regulator housing and the weight keeps it down and it was only two of the magnets. Evryone cf-petg blue
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
I needed to tune a bit on the settings to get a good quality print out of my PETG and I didn't like the seams on the most visible face. But i love your idea and work on the model itself, Thanks!
The designer has replied
1
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I hope it works out well for you. I know it's cliche but might be worth drying out the PETG. I had a wasted part due to my PETG being wet
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Replying to @awillkom :
Year you are right. It isn’t the best or the newest filament I have left at the moment^^ But I think the seam stuff etc. will help if someone don't have PETG-CF around as CF always looks much cleaner (in my opinion)
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Replying to @Pythagoras1600 :
that's a good point. the CF hides the seam really well
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I have printed this design and think it’s great! However I am not sure how you wired everything together. I am pretty tech savvy but don’t have much experience with wiring specifically, so any guidance would be appreciated.
The designer has replied
1
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Happy to help! This is a picture from the Amazon page for the thermal switch that I marked up. I ended up using ferrule connectors to combine the connections at the switch. I ran some long wires for the PSU connections and ran them back between the bento box and the wall of the printer. Keeps the wires nice and tidy and doesn't risk the bed crushing them.
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Did you use the 12v or 24v version? How did you power it?
The designer has replied
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24V so I could power it directly from the X1C power supply. Fans and the thermal relay are all 24V
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This is super interesting, i've been looking for a seemingly nice way to introduce a chamber heater and filter on my Bambu. This looks like it, but I dont seem to be able to see the PTC Heater? Where did you put it?
The designer has replied
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This doesn't actively heat the chamber, it just uses a temp controlled relay to turn on and off the filter. It removes any need to flip a switch manually when printing ABS/ASA etc, as it turns on the filter when the chamber reaches 38C
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
came out greate
0
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Print Profile
fixed seams,custom material for quality,changed settings
0
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