Soprano Ukulele - v5.5

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Soprano Ukulele - v5.5

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Print Profile(8)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

Neck
Neck
Designer
5.8 h
1 plate
4.8(5)

Bridge and center ring
Bridge and center ring
Designer
34 min
1 plate
5.0(4)

saddle
saddle
Designer
16 min
1 plate
5.0(4)

headstock and headstock screw cover
headstock and headstock screw cover
Designer
3.3 h
1 plate
5.0(3)
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Released

Description

There are already many designs for 3D printed ukuleles. Why another one? My goal was to design and build from scratch an instrument that I could then use to write my own original song.

 

It ended up taking a lot longer than I originally anticipated, and there were many mistakes along the way. Versions 1 through 5.2 never saw the light of day. But I'm pretty happy with out it finally turned out.

 

Update 5/6/24 - v5.5 On a couple of older prints I saw some delamination of the body underneath the bridge, so I added a little extra bracing under the bridge to prevent it.

 

Update 5/29/24 - Want to crank up the volume to 11?  Check out my new design for an acoustic/electric soprano ukulele!

 

Sound demo and build instructions available in the video below:

 

 

Click here for 3D printed ukulele tuners I designed to go with this uke.

 

I also designed a mount to hang the uke from the wall.

 

If you prefer more conventional tuners, the hole patterns match Grover brand ukulele tuners, model 9NB.

 

In addition to the printed parts, you'll need 1 Number 4, 1'' wood screw to screw the headstock to the neck.

 

I also used a 200 mm long, 5 mm diameter carbon fiber rod in the neck for strength. The rod is available from Amazon. If you don't want to use the carbon fiber rod, there is a version of the neck available without the rod hole.

Print Settings

  • Printer : Bambu Lab P1S
  • No Supports Rafts, or Brims
  • Resolution: 0.12 mm
  • Infill: 50 %
  • Filament material: LA

Notes:

All parts were printed with 5 shell layers and 50% infill for strength. No supports, rafts, or brims required for any part.

Various parts were glued together. I like Gorilla brand superglue gel. See the video for pictures of the build.

 

If the bridge isn't glued properly, it can pull off. I found lightly sanding the bottom of the bridge really helps. I also apply pressure using clamps for 10 or 15 minutes to make sure it is strongly attached.

 

Most parts were printed with 0.12 mm resolution. However, the fretboard was printed with 0.08 mm resolution. For the fretboard, I paused the print at the top of the fretboard to change filament colors, so that the frets print in a different color than the fretboard.

 

You'll need one each of the following
Body
Bridge
Center ring
Fretboard
Saddle
Headstock screw cover

 

If using the carbon fiber rod print the Neck. Otherwise print the neck - no rod hole

 

The headstock is designed with a decorative inlay. If you want to use the inlay, print the Headstock - with inlay, and the Headstock inlay.

If you prefer not to deal with the inlay, print the Headstock - no inlay.

 

You'll need five of the fret markers.

 

On the bottom of the body is a screw hole. You can either attach a strap pin to the bottom of the uke with this screw hole, or fill the hole with the Bottom screw.

 

The saddle is a compensated saddle. When placing it in the slot in the bridge, pay attention to the orientation. The peaks in the middle part of the bridge should be further from the top of the uke, and peaks on the edges of the bridge should be nearer the top.

Comment & Rating (58)

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The print profile is no longer public
2nd attempt much better using petg cf with slower speed and acceleration settings. Random seams
(Edited)
2
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Nice! Interested to see how the full uke turns out.
(Edited)
1
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Replying to @jwnicholson :
wasn't the best on the under side so changed over the filament to petg cf and changed the speed settings slightly on overhangs. almost finished the reprint so will post again shortly
0
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I mostly used PLA for my prints. I tried Bambu Lab PETG, but it's bending modulus is very low, which resulted in fairly bendy uke body. The result was nice sounding, but very quiet uke.
0
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Here is my Ukulele.
The designer has replied
2
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Thanks for sharing. It looks great! I really like the dark blue. What filament is that?
0
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It is honestly unreal how good it sounds! The only issues I ran into were some overhangs not printing nicely, even with supports enabled (the bottom sides of the body and the headstock). Even so, I think it came out very nice! Thank you for all the work you put into designing this thing!
The designer has replied
1
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Looks great! I love the colors you picked. For the body and headstock, I usually print on silent mode. I found that helps with the overhangs. Also 0.12 mm resolution was optimal for that as well. Thanks for the feedback and taking the time to post your build pics!
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Replying to @jwnicholson :
I appreciate the follow up and thank you for the feedback! I printed the body, neck, and headstock at 0.16mm instead of 0.12mm because I used PLA-CF and didn't want to risk clogging the nozzle.
1
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Nice!green parts are print by PLA-CF.At least it feels hard.
The designer has replied
1
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Looks great. I really like that green!
0
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Print Profile
headstock and headstock screw cover
i'm waiting for the tuner's screws, but the result is perfect! thank you!
The designer has replied
1
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Love the yellow. It looks fantastic!
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I have zero musical talent but this was an awesome project!
The designer has replied
1
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Looks great! And a ukulele is a great instrument to start learning on :)
0
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Print Profile
headstock and headstock screw cover
Love the design!!
1
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Print Profile
Neck
Like how it fits nice and snug.
1
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The print profile is no longer public
Easy to print, love the weight!
1
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Wow, thanks for sharing. I'm printing it. Regarding the headstock, can I print it flat? As that's the default setting in Bambu Studio.
The designer has replied
0
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Hi. I print the headstock standing up with a brim. I thought I had uploaded all the files in the orientation I print them in. I'll have to check that.
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Replying to @jwnicholson :
You're right, sorry I didn't express myself clearly. What I meant was, in the bambustudio, after clicking on the 'Automatic Orientation' feature, the headstock will be oriented in a flattened position.What I want to know is which way is suitable for this project?
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Replying to @Zerokun :
If you print in the flattened position, it will need supports. If you print it standing up like in the .3mf file, no supports required, but it will probably need a brim. I always print it standing up, not flattened.
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