Project Introduction

This lamp was designed to allow people to try various techniques when printing Translucent PETG filaments. The shade and lamp body parts are easily interchangeable allowing the light to have a variety of styles and is a great platform for remixes.

Bambu Wiki for printing Translucent PETG : https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/transparent-petg

Community Designs

As I was designing this lamp, I tried to design it to allow for modularity and allow for creative modifications. I would love to see other peoples ideas and how they paint the prints. For all the “stained-glass” parts I included them unpainted so that I do not stifle any creativity. There is a section below where I will outline some ideas that I had but didn't have time to design or print.

Bill of Materials

• 3x ~11 cm long LED Strips - The model is designed to allow up to 12mm wide LED strips, I chose to use the LEDs shown below so I could power them easily via USB. I would suggest LEDs on the warmer spectrum.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CDKXN3T3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
• ~100 cm 22 AWG Wire
• Some Way to connect to power, I used these premade USB power leads, but there's a lot of options here.
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FF883CX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Printing Suggestions

Filament: PETG Basic, PETG Translucent

I used all Bambu filaments other then some prototyped pieces when I ran out of black PETG and Bambu was on break so I used Black Overture PETG.

Before printing, I suggest you use some sort of tolerance test to make sure you can print your PETG to 0.1 mm tolerances with no problem. I was able to do this test without any special settings or changes to my X1 Carbon. Many parts are friction fit to allow for interchangeability.

A majority of the pieces are rather trivial and designed to be printed without support. With that said, the shade pillar sides will test your overhang printing abilities. I used minimal tree supports to keep the print upright, but allow greater airflow from the part fan. If you do not slow printing speed down and possibly increase your part fan on overhangs, the overhangs might not cool fast enough and create an ugly print. I will say in all my testing, I always came out with useable parts, but not always pretty parts.

Assembly Instructions

I hate long videos, feel free to watch this at 2x speed :)

Ideas for Improvement or Remixes

As with any project with a deadline, compromises have to be made. As I went I realized there were areas for improvement or experimentation. I tried to note as many as possible, but this list might grow as I come upon ideas.

I would like to release a version 2 at some point to include these ideas, but would also love to see others join in and share their ideas. Whether they are for better functionality, or a different aesthetic.

• Lithophane sides - These could be images, but I did some preliminary experiments using images of rocky or marble textures with the translucent PETG. This created some of the variation you might see in normal stained glass. Pair this with the printing profiles from Bambu and you could end up with some awesome results
• 3-Way Light Switch - Would've loved to incorporate a spot on the base for a switch as linked below, but also note this would require structural changes to parts to allow for the additional wiring. The idea is you have a switch that turns the bottom on, the top on, both on, or both off. 
  Switch link
• A middle pillar for the base with no light and no shades, could be some cool designs here
• TPU Gaskets - There are a few places to add gaskets that I think the positve pressure would help hold the screws in place
• Base designs - Below I will put some basic dimensions so that it would be easy for anyone to make their own designs for the base. Even beginners could design a neat base that makes the lamp completely theirs!
• Pretty obvious, but other shade designs!

Stained Glass and Base Dimensions

The following dimensions should help when designing custom panels for the shade and body side panels. The side panels simply slide in, but the shade does have bumps that allow the pieces to snap together. While you could omit these and glue the shade together, you wont be able to every change the shade panels without printing a whole new shade.

Shade

In the raw files, I uploaded STL, STEP, and 3MF files of a plain shade side. There is a back and a front. How I designed my shade was I drew the design on the shade front, extruded to cut holes in the front. Then I projected the sketch to the back color piece, offset the sketch by 0.1 mm, then extruded forward. If this explanation doesn't help, comment and I will make a quick video.

I thought this approach was easier for this piece than providing dimms.

If you prefer not to do a 2 piece approach, I also uploaded the files for a single piece that you can do whatever you want with. It is also in the raw files.

Bottom Stained Glass

I hope these dimms help expedite any remixes. I can do some raw files with no design like above if  requested, I just figured since it is simple shapes this might be easier to start from. 

Change Log

02-19-2024

• Added Printer profiles to the raw files for glass like prints. I haven't printed these yet because I broke the thermistor when swapping nozzles and I have to wait for new ones to come in. Once I have tested each, they will be added as print profiles. These profiles are just bambu's suggested settings with the shade and bottom color piece on a plate. I am not sure when I will be able to test, so I wanted to make them available.
• Added files for the plain shade in the raw files, and added image with dimmensions for the bottom stained glass pieces.