FGC68 MKII tipx edition: Dye tactical mag / planet eclipse CF20 UAL Upper and lower set for paintball first strike use

this lower and Upper will work with the basic FGC68-MKII parts. except for a view buffer tubes models but replacement parts have been added.
this set will make it possible to use dye tactical mags with PE followers or PE CF20 mags with the FGC68 platfrom

the FGC68 starter set can be found here:
https://www.printables.com/model/87803-fgc-68-base-package-starter-set-for-tipx-tcr-magfe

the collection of FGC68 parts can be found here:
FGC68 MKII
https://www.printables.com/social/180009-untangleworks/collections/88908
https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/UntangleART/fgc-68-mkii

FGC68 MKI
https://www.printables.com/social/180009-untangleworks/collections/88907
https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/UntangleART/fgc-68-mki

some of the installation steps that are different from the TIPX lower can be fund in the images for now (shown with the Half mag version but the steps are the same)

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marker parts:
long range kit for TIPX or TCR internals for first strike use

I have not tested if the stock TIPX round shaped breach will match well with the Planet eclipse followers... for round-ball only use

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mags parts:

self made dye half mags or the UNW DHM mag shells.
and you will need the PE followers the official ones. or the 3d printed PE replica.
note: you don't have to use the special Lok-bolt followers that I made. the stock shape of a PE follower should work like a bolt stop

the DYE Half MAG parts that I made can be found here. (half mag shells, followers)
https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/UntangleART/dye-half-mag-parts

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materials needed lower mag release:
paddle release
1x spring 6mm OD, 0.6mm wire, 12mm long
1x bolt m2 16mm long

L part
1x m3 bolt in a length of 25mm

FGC9 mag release paddle
1x metal pin 4mm OD, 27mm long (a 3d printed part can be used for this)

print settings:
0.2 layer hight should be fine.
you can use the 8 layer walls and a 40% infill.
but personally I moved a bit over to solid prints just to give it more strength in case things go wrong on the field…