Update: Created a version 2 based on feedback. I've left the V1 version in the files if anyone is interested and the instructions still apply for that one, it is only slightly different for V2.

Changes for V2:

1.) Made logo larger to aid in support removal, supports are REQUIRED for this. This fixes the issue with some peoples slicers bridging the logo incorrectly.

2.) Made magnet holes slightly larger/deeper to aid in magnet assembly. Glue is now REQUIRED and it is no longer press fit so variance in print quality shouldn't affect it like it did with the old press fit method.

3.) Increased the size of the cavity for your finger/thumb when pulling the tool out of the case.

If you want to print the bottom part of the case, but keep your old top in order to take advantage of the larger finger holes, it will still work fine. The bottom part of V2 just needs glue for the magnet. Otherwise they line up properly.

The sexiest deburring tool case you've ever seen is waiting for you to print it.

Will this case fit your current deburring tool? Probably not, unless you have this one.

Deburring Tool

Will you buy a new one just so you can print this case? I don't know, but I would.

To check to see if yours will fit:

Tool Only Opening 13.5mm Width / 129.5mm Length

Tool with bit Opening 13.5mm Width / 151.4mm Length

Instructions: (for V2 just enable supports and glue magnets)

This was designed to be printed as oriented straight out of the STL. The case should be cavity side up and the lid should be logo side down with no supports(please read the note below!!!). The bridging on the logo is intentional in order to achieve the texture you see in the pictures.

Note: I've seen some users say the bridging went length-wise with the logo, which it should not do. Please make sure you check those layers before printing to ensure the bridging is done horizontally on the lid so it is as short as possible. Im unsure if this is related to different slicers or layer heights chosen. If you are unable to verify the bridging will be done properly try using supports. It should give a similar outcome.

The lid has a tendency to warp if not cooled completely, my impatience has shown me that numerous times during the design process, so quell your excitement to assemble it and let it cool completely. I've also found just a bit of pressure bending the lid after the print can resolve this. In my testing some filaments warped worse than others (Hatchbox Granite PLA was the worst, solid colors seem ok).

All of the magnet holes should be press to fit(V1 and Gridfinity versions), though I can't speak for anyones printer but my own (Bambulab P1P). However there is a slight gap underneath left for glue if needed/wanted. Please use something flat to press them in in order to keep it flush.

IMPORTANT!!! Make sure you orient all magnets in the bottom part of the case the SAME WAY. The bit magnets can interfere with the lids ability to close if not and are incredibly annoying to remove and flip. Trust me.

Magnets used:

8 - 8x2mm

3 - 15x2mm

Gridfinity Version only uses the 3 - 15x2mm

Magnets

The orientation of the bits in the photo is the only way they will fit, so keep that in mind.

On a real note, there are some great cases people have already made on here, but hopefully some of you can enjoy this one as well.

Thanks and happy printing.

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