I designed this Paw-Lamp for a friend over a year ago. I redesigned it several times, gifted and sold some of them and now it’s time to release it to the public.

I used a P1P with 0.4 nozzle for this design.

It uses around 242g of Filament (200g main color, 40g of white and 2g for the PETG-Support-Layer) in total and 8,5h of print time. The middle part is printed with a PETG-Support-Layer.

Don’t use lighter colors (white, yellow) for the main color. The LEDs will shine through and illuminate the body (but maybe that’s an effect you want). Darker colors and matte colors are ok.

For the white parts I prefer eryone polar white.

You need the following parts to build this lamp:

• WS2812B-LED-Strip (44 to 45 LEDs and a 60 LED/m strip is enough, 144 LED/m are too bright)
• 1x NodeMCU V2 with WLED-Firmware (or similar)
• 5,5 x 2,1mm DC Power Jack Socket (the hole in the base is 11mm wide, the power socket is 10mm)
• 5V 2A power supply (1A should be enough even with all LEDs in full white)
• Cables
• 12x M3 brass inserts (I used RS-Pro 204-0616, but the cheap ones from aliexpress should also work)
• 8x M3x30 countersunk screws
• 4x M3x5 screws

As alternative you can use LED-Rings with 7 or 8 WS2812B-LEDs.

NodeMCU

The hole layout for the NodeMCU is 43,7mm x 20,8mm.

The dimension of the NodeMCU is 48x26mm.

Put the firmware onto the NodeMCU before you screw it onto the base!

Don’t use the NodeMCU as power source for the LED-Strips! Get all the power (for the strips and the NodeMCU) directly from the power socket. I prefer to power every strip separately. It looks like a mess but is not visible when the lamp is done. You can chain the strips together if you want.

Brass inserts

When all parts are printed put in 4 brass inserts into the base for the NodeMCU and 8 into the top part.

LED-Strips

Solder the cables onto the strips before putting them into the base! Soldering the cables after putting the strips into the base is a pain. I did that. I don’t recommend. Cables should be a little bit longer than needed for easy routing the cables to the power jack and NodeMCU.

Put the strips into the base and at level with the top edge of the part. Glued like this you have a 2mm gap left for the cables on the bottom of the strip.

I secure the ends of the strips with CA-Glue just to be safe the won’t come off.

Final assembly

After everything is soldered together, test the lamp, and connect it to your Wi-Fi.

If that is done, assemble your lamp with the M3x30 screws.

The fit of the parts is tight and don’t press on the beans of the top-part or they pop out.

Because of that: Test the lamp before final assembling! Disassembling the lamp is hard and could break the thinner top part.

There are reflective inserts for the beans you can use if you want (plate 3). Try it out if it fits your needs. I think it looks nicer with the inserts. These are also printed with a tight fit, so they won’t rattle around in the lamp. If they should not fit, print them 0,2mm shorter.

How could you try out the reflective inserts without assembling and disassembling the lamp? Flip the top part with the beans and lay it onto the base.

Please don’t sell or reupload this design or sell the finished lamps. Thanks.