Playseat Challenge Fanatec Shifter and Handbrake Mount

Simple yet tough and rigid mounting system for a Fanatec Clubsport Shifter and Handbrake.
This was designed to mount both the shifter and handbrake to my chair without getting in the way of the folding seat or the wheel bar lifting to get in / out.
I didn't like the idea of big chunky prints or adjustable mechanisms to fail. This one is nice and discrete - bolt up and drive.

The handbrake is positioned just a tad behind the wheel so you don't accidentally hit it while reaching for the shifter, but it's close enough to make rally a breeze.

Note that I don't use a standard wheel position - I drilled some new holes in the playseat mounting plate as pictured to bring the wheel closer to me.

The mount does allow for some forward / backward adjustment of the handbrake handle (via rotation of the handbrake housing) if you don't use exactly the same wheel position.
You can also flip one or both of the mirror mounts to get a different angle or height.

I've also included models for LHD - procedure is the same just mirror everything.

I can lean way too hard on the shifter and pull the handbrake with a lot more force than needed to reach the stop and it barely budges.

The 6kg weight is not it's limit - it's just the heaviest thing I could find

You'll also need:
2x 25mm (1") motorcycle mirror mounts
2x M10x35mm Bolts - My mirror mounts used coarse thread bolts so check yours before you wreck a set with the wrong thread!
4x M10 Flat Washers
5x T-Nuts and M5 Bolts included with the shifter
5x M5 Flat Washers
5x M5 Spring Washers
2x M6x30mm Bolts for the bottom bracket to the shifter
1x M6x40mm Bolt for the bottom bracket to the handbrake
4x M6 Flat Washers
4x M6 Spring Washers
1x M6 Nut (I used Nyloc)

Installation is fairly straightforward.
1. Mount the upper bracket to the shifter using the 4 T-nuts and bolts provided with the shifter (you'll need to remove the rubber stoppers under the shifter to get to the T-channels)
Push it up as far as it will go. Use flat washers and spring washers here. (Bolts marked 1 on the picture).
2. Take the cover off the handbrake and loosely bolt the front top hole to the shifter T-slot using the fanatec T-nuts (Bolt 2), and loosely bolt the bottom rear hole to the bottom bracket with the 40mm M6 bolt and nut (Bolt 3) - note the bracket is directional, and these bolts are fed through inside the handbrake. Again use flat washers and spring washers. Don't bolt the bottom bracket to the shifter yet.
3. Put the rubber stoppers back on and slide the handbrake all the way down as pictured - this will let you get the hand brake cover back on.

4. Push the bottom bracket up under the shifter and bolt into place (Bolts marked 4)
5. Tighten the handbrake bolts (Bolt 2 and 3) once they are in their final position - the bottom bracket has a little bit of room for adjusting the final level position. You can reach them with a hex key from the outside of the handbrake.
6. Bolt the whole assembly onto the mirror mounts and onto the chair (Bolts marked 5). Make sure to use an M10 washer on each side of the printed part. Tip - Keep the mirror mounts and the M10 bolts a little loose until everything is in position, then tighten everything a little at a time evenly. You want it all to clamp up nice and straight.

Both brackets use just over 100g of filament combined, and take 2.5hrs on a P1P
I used BambuLab PLA Basic for the rigidity, accuracy and layer adhesion.

Mostly the default BambuLab P1P settings apart from:
5 Walls, 5 Top / Bottom Shells. This makes the ribs solid with just a bit of infill around the M10 holes.

You might need more walls if you use a smaller nozzle - you want enough walls for the ribs to end up solid.

15% Gyroid infill is all you need - the design doesn't rely on infill.

Print direction is important for the bottom piece. Make sure you orient the print with the oval hole pointing up - this gives it the strength it needs in its final position.